CARING FOR THE CONTAINER PLANTS

CARING FOR CONTAINER PLANTS
With container gardening, nothing is more important than water. Plant roots are not able to search out water on their own. Don't be misled by rainfall; it will not be of much importance in supplying moisture to your container plants.

When watering your plants, always make sure you are reaching the roots. Watering the surface does little good. Apply water until it begins trickling out the bottom. This can be deceiving if the plant is excessively dry, because the water sometimes will run down the sides of the container into the drain holes, not penetrating the rootball. Wet the soil with small successive doses of water until you are sure the rootball is saturated.
Frequency of watering will vary according to weather, size of the plant, and type of container. Try always to water before plants show signs of wilting or stress. In summer, daily watering of container plants is often required. Early morning and evening are the best times to water. Watering in hot summer sun can scorch foliage.
Overhead watering
Watering plants from above with a hose or watering can is the simplest and most common method of watering. Ideally, the water should be applied like a light spring rain with fine gentle droplets. One way to do this with a watering can is to use an attachment called a rose, which breaks the water into fine droplets. This allows water to soak in gradually and minimizes compaction of the soil.
During summer, watering can become very time consuming if you have a number of containers. Plants can be grouped closely, with sprinklers arranged to supply water, although this generally leads to water waste because much of it falls into corners and between plants.
Some plants, especially hairy-leaved ones, scorch easily and should always be watered from the bottom.
Bottom watering
Watering from the bottom can be accomplished by submerging a pot in water, standing the pot on wet matting, or using a wick for capillary watering. The wick must be connected to a reservoir of water and often can be inserted into the container through the drainage hole. Matting and wicks often must be purchased through garden supply catalogs.
Some window boxes have or can be adapted to include a self-watering reservoir. The reservoir is filled from the top or side of the window box and delivers moisture to the plants through a wick. These planters often must be purchased through garden supply and specialty catalogs.
Reviving a wilted plant
You can revive a wilting plant by setting the pot in a tray of moist gravel. If the plant is so dry that the soil has pulled away from the sides of the container, it takes extra effort to rewet it. The best way to do this is to submerge the entire pot in water for a half hour or so. When bubbles stop rising to the top, the rootball is saturated.
If your container is so large that these methods are not practical, wet the soil with small successive doses of water until you are sure the rootball is saturated. If you apply water all at once, it will run down the sides of the pot, missing the rootball entirely, and the plant will continue to suffer.
Fertilizing and Repotting
Seasonal plants such as annual flowers and vegetables will need more feeding than slower-growing containerized trees and shrubs. Annuals grow quickly, exhausting nutrients in the soil. No matter what kind of container plant you have, apply fertilizer only during the growing season.
Liquid fertilizer is easy to use for baskets, window boxes, and smaller containers. Use an all-purpose flower and garden fertilizer. If you are growing mostly flowers and fruiting plants, a fertilizer with a high potash content (for example, a 10-10-27) works well. Seaweed extracts and fish fertilizers are good if you want to use organic fertilizers. You probably will need to fertilize every two or three weeks, but follow the instructions for the specific fertilizer you select.
For larger, permanent container plantings of trees and shrubs, fertilizing should be light, because you don't want the plants to grow so vigorously that they outgrow their containers. Replenish these plants by top-dressing them in spring with an inch or two of new soil. Add a dose of fertilizer at the same time. Controlled-release, polymer-coated granule fertilizers work well for this.
Repotting
To determine whether your plant is rootbound, turn the container upside down or on its side and gently remove the plant. Examine the roots. Unless your plant is large, heavy, and hard to handle, the best time to do this is after watering.
To repot a rootbound plant, prepare a container one size larger than the current one, and fill the new container with soil. Take the plant, still in its old container, and press the plant and container into the new soil and container. Then lift the old container (with plant) out of the new soil, and you will have molded a spot exactly the right size for your plant. Remove the plant from its old container and cut any circling roots from the rootball before planting. Water the plant immediately after repotting.
Repotting trees and shrubs
If you are growing a tree or large shrub in a container, you may reach a point where it's no longer practical to continue moving the plant to larger containers. However, to keep the plant vigorous, you must still repot it when it becomes rootbound—and you must prune the roots at the same time.
To do this, remove the plant from the container. With a pencil, screwdriver, or other sharp instrument, gently remove shards of pottery, rock, and old compacted soil from the rootball. Cut off dead, diseased, or problem roots with a sharp knife. Place the plant in a new container of the same size, or the old container after it has been cleaned and disinfected. Gradually work in new soil mix, watering lightly as you go to distribute the new soil around plant roots.
In spring, top-dress any plant that is not transplanted at least once a year, using an inch or two of soil mix.
Tools for Container Gardening
Container gardening can be done without many specialized tools. However, there are some that will make your work much easier.
Watering can with rose
Watering cans should have a long neck to help you reach pots easily. Large watering cans (more than 1 gallon) are heavy and harder to handle, so their design is important. Some watering cans have long crossbars that make them easier to handle. Look for a good watering can with a rose attachment on the spout so the water is delivered like a soft rain and not a torrential jet. A rose attachment also makes it easy to carry out foliage fertilizing.
Hose nozzles and sprinklers
Water wands are lightweight but sturdy metal or plastic spray wands that attach to hoses. Some are specifically adapted for watering baskets. Nozzle sprinklers have adjustable ranges and can be inserted into one large pot to cover several pots in a larger area.
Sprayer
A small sprayer (about 3 pints) can be used for misting, fertilizing, or applying insecticidal soap and pest deterrents. Sprayers that can be connected to garden hoses also are handy. A sprayer that has held insecticide or pesticides should never be used for anything else.
Pruning knife, shears, or scissors
Whether you need any or all of these depends on what kind of plants you have. If you're growing trees or shrubs, you'll need pruning shears. If you're growing annual flowers, you might need only a good strong scissors and a knife. A garden knife is versatile and works well for root pruning.

BASIC GARDEN CARE

BASIC GARDEN CARE
Periodic maintenance is essential for any garden.Here are some basic tips for keeping your garden healthy and vigorous.

Pinch the blooms as they fade to promote plant growth, and in some cases re-blooming. On some mounded perennials, (like chrysanthemums), shearing once or twice in the weeks before blooming will encourage denser growth and more profuse blooms.
Keep the area around plants free from litter and debris as this environment can harbor various insects and pathogens, which can harm your plants.
Tall plants such as, Lilies, foxglove, African marigold, etc. are naturally top-heavy. Often, staking is required to keep them from falling over. In areas where you may have a large grouping of such plants, small branches propped up in the early Spring above where these plants are growing, will provide support as the plants grow taller and lean against them. These branches which will be hidden from view by foliage as the season progresses.
Keep a thick layer of mulch around your plants to control weeds and help retain moisture. Buy mulch by the cubic metre whenever possible. Buying in bulk gives you more quantity.
Weed your garden regularly as weeds compete with plants for moisture and growing space. In addition to being unsightly, weeds can also inhibit proper root development of your garden plants causing stunted growth, leggy stems and poor blooms.
Most perennials need to be divided periodically, usually every 3 to 5 years or so. This is best done in the Spring or Fall, (some plants do have a preference), and it is necessary to help in controlling the size of your garden as well as providing you with a source of new, (and free), plants. Division methods vary between types of plants so if you're not sure as to how it's done, just pull out those plant books or pick up the phone and call your local garden center.Also Remember
Prune your woody plants for size, shape, and health. Prune crossing stems, dead or damaged stems and pinch back spent blooms.
Prune deciduous trees when dormant.
Shrubs and trees that produce flowers on the current years' growth should be pruned in the early spring. Shrubs and trees that produce flowers on last years' growth should be pruned in the summer. When pruning, never remove more than one-third of the total plant mass at any one time, that goes for cutting your grass, too!
Evergreens rarely need pruning other than for desired shape and to remove damaged or diseased branches.
When applying fertilizers for trees and shrubs, place it at the "drip edge" or under the perimeter of the branches, rather than at the base of the stem.
When applying fertilizers to lawns, be sure to overlap each pass slightly to prevent "striping", and water-in the fertilizer as soon as possible afterwards.
Vary the pattern of your mowing to prevent "rutting" or "tracking".
If you have a Maintenance or Landscape company caring for your garden, please remember to notify these services, as soon as possible, if you should notice a problem with your garden plants. Fast action can often save a plant from winding up in the compost pile.
WHAT TO FERTILIZE:Perennials and Annuals :These plants can be fertilized throughout the growing season. A balanced fertilizer such as a 10-10-10 is usually a good choice. Certain types of plants require specialized fertilizers (roses, bulbs, etc.), with N,P,K percentages blended especially for them, as well as including other nutrients to accommodate any special nutritional requirements.It would easily become a second career if we listed each of these plants and their nutritional needs so check with your local nursery or Extension Service to find out what their specific requirements are, or look them up in reference books. If you apply fertilizer prior to bloom time for a particular plant, it is wise to use a fertilizer with more Phosphorous and Potassium, (6-10-10, for example), as this will promote better and longer blooms.
Trees:Trees and shrubs should be fertilized twice a year. Once in the early Spring and again in late June or early July. A 5-10-5 fertilizer is usually a good choice. In specific cases where the tree requires especially acidic or basic soil conditions, then use fertilizers which will help to promote this soil condition. Other soil amendments may be required to promote these conditions as well so a knowledge of what the trees' essential needs are will go a long way towards providing it with proper care.

In Northern climates, do not fertilize trees or other woody plants after the second week of JulyThese plants need several months for their stems to "harden off", or form a bark, before the winter. Late season fertilizing will promote longer duration of green growth which can be damaged by fall and winter frosts if not given enough time to harden

ROSES AND BULBOUS PLANTS
Roses: Roses are not as tricky to care for as you may have been led to believe. They do require a bit more vigilance than most other garden plants but they are not the specialized nightmare that many people think they are.Roses are gross feeders. (No, that doesn't mean they have poor table manners), but it does mean that they consume a prodigious amount of nutrients which must be replenished regularly. Even a well prepared rose bed will soon lose its ability to supply nutrition if it is not fertilized on a regular basis.Fertilize roses monthly with a balanced fertilizer such as; 6-6-4 and include trace elements (micronutrients).Guard against magnesium deficiencies with an occasional application of Epsom salts, ( a good source of magnesium).Water roses infrequently but thoroughly, and keep at least a 3 inch layer of mulch in the rose bed. Keep roses separated from other plants as they tend to prefer a place of their own. Keep rose beds airy and free from leaf litter and other debris.Cut back roses in late fall to about knee height or so, mound soil, (not from the rose bed), around base of plant to about 8-10 inches up the stem. Build a cylindrical chicken wire fence around each plant so that it exceeds the height of the stems by a few inches and fill to the top with shredded leaves or straw.
Bulbous Plants: Bulbs, Corms, Tubers, and Rhizomes are some of the easiest garden plants to cultivate. Most are planted in Fall and bloom in early Spring, but there are many types of bulbous plants which bloom at many different times of the year. Bulbous plants are relatively carefree and are not susceptible to many diseases.Fertilize during the growing season with high Potassium fertilizers to encourage strong blooms. When leafy plants such as Daffodils and Irises begin to die back, resist the urge to cut down their foliage before it turns completely brown as photosynthesis occurs until then and the plant needs to naturally finish this process of dieback in order to create enough food storage for next years growth.Also, do not braid or otherwise tie-up this foliage for ornamental purposes as this restricts the amount of leaf surface exposed to sunlight and thus inhibits the plants' ability to conduct photosynthesis.

FRUIT PLANTS - PROTECTION MEASURE

FRUIT PLANTS - PROTECTION MEASURES
With the advent of spring the flowers bloom and there is a smell in the air of winter drifting away to give way to the sunny summers. It is during this period that most of the fruit growing plants and other seasonal plants sprout and to the grower it spells a good crop with a bountiful harvest.
With the warming climate the pests also become active and during the months of the February-March these can spell ruin for the plants’ that at this period are either at the flowering or fruit setting stage. Any adverse affect at this stage can reduce the yield of the crop. The effect is more on fruit plants like mango, guava, pear, peach, grapes and all the citrus varieties.
The grower must control these pests at this stage so that there is least damage to the flower buds, the blooming flowers and the tender foliage.
The crop wise pests and the method of their control is given below:
MANGO (49 plants per acre)
Mealy Bug – It damages both the flowers and the young fruits during February-April. During this period the young nymphs crawl up the trees and attack the new growing shoots and panicles. The easiest management of this pest is to dig the soil around the trunk of the plant and turn it over three four times so that the eggs of the pest get killed due to the sun. This pest has the crawling habit and it can be discouraged by covering the lower portion of the trunk unto 2-3 feet with a polyethylene sheet that is wrapped around the trunk and tied at both ends. At the bottom end about 6 inches of it should be buried under the earth so that the pest cannot crawl beneath it.
The application of Methyl Parathion 50 EC (Kildot, Ekatox, Folidol or Metacid) at 50 gm per plant is also recommended.
Mango Hoppers – This pest is responsible for maximum damage to the mango crop. The nymphs and the adults both suck the sap from the tender leaves and panicles, which become sticky and sooty. The summer winds make the young fruits as well as the dried up flowers to fall. This can be controlled with the application of two sprays of the pesticide one in February end and the second in March end. The recommended spray is of Carbaryl 50 WP (Hexavin, Sevin or Kildryl) 10 gm or Malathion 50 EC 10 ml or Endosulfan 35 EC (Thiodan) 10 ml in 5 ml of water per plant.
Mango Scale – During March sometimes there is an attack of Scale inflicting the leaves by sucking the sap. This infection can be reduced by spraying Methyl Parathion 50 EC 5 ml or Basudin 20 EC (Diazinon) 25 ml in 10 liter water per plant.
Stem Borer – It destroys the tree by tunneling into the stem. Wood dust comes out of the surface holes. Treatments is remove the dust and inject methyl Parathion 50 EC 4 ml dissolved in 1 liter of water into the hole and plug it with mud.
GRAPES (220 vines per acre)
Grapevine Thrip – The nymphs and adults attack the tender leaves and the blooming flowers and suck the oozing sap. The leaves develop silvery white patches, then curl up and finally dry and fall off. The flowers and young berries if formed shed. This cause heavy damage to the fruit setting and scab is formed on the berries. The attack is prevalent during February-March. Effective control can be done with a spray of Malathion 50 EC 2 ml in 2 liter water per vines once before flowering followed by a second spray after the fruit setting. In case of Perlette varieties use Carbaryl (Hexavin 50 WP) 2 gm in 2 liter water per vines.
Leaf Roller - It attacks the leaves which become rolled up with the pest inside. It then feeds on these leaves. Treatment is spray with Endosulfan 35 EC (Thiodan) 2 ml or Malathion 50 EC 2 ml in 2 liter water per vine as soon as the attack is noticed.
PEARS (72 plants per acre)
Leaf Hopper and Aphid – With the advent of the summers these pests cause immense damage to the plants by sucking the sap from the leaves, tender shoots and the fruit. To control these a spray of Carbaryl 50 WP (Hexavin or Sevin) 5 gm or Dimethotate 30 EC (Roger) 5 ml in 2 liter water per plant is recommended.
Hairy Caterpillers – These pests feed on the tender leaves and also attack the outer coat of the young fruits which becomes black and hard. Treatment is a spray of Endosulfan 35 EC (Thiodan) 5 ml or Toxaphene 80 EC (Anatox) 20 ml in 2 liter water per plant.
Mite – Mites attack normally during April-May resulting in brown spots on the leaves that become pale and dry and then fall off. A spray of Dimethoate 30 EC (Roger, Hexagor or Chemgor) 5 ml in 5 liter water or Dicofol 18 EC (Kelthane) 10 ml in 5 liter water or Ethion 50 EC or Fosmite 50 EC 5 ml in 5 liters water is recommended per plant.
CITRUS FRUIT (110 plants per acre)
Leaf Miner - This pest is active from March to November with maximum attack from mid April to mid June and again during September-October. The larvae attack the tender leaves leaving silvery shiny serpentine marks on the leaves. The leaves become crumpled. They also affect the young tender shoots. To control the infestation a spray of Fenvelrate 20 EC (Sumicidan) 2 ml or Cypermethrin 10 EC (Ripcord) 5 ml or Deltamerhrin 2.8 EC (Decis) 15 ml or Monocrotophos 36 EC (Nuvacron) 5 ml in 5 liters per plant at fortnightly intervals is recommended.
Citrus Psylla - The nymphs as well as the adults are responsible for the damage. They are active from March to November with maximum attack during April to September. They suck the sap from the growing shoots, which soon dry up. A spray of Monocrotophos 36 SL (Nuvacron) 625 ml or Dimethotate 30 EC (Roger) 5 ml in 5 liter water per plant is recommended.
White and Black Fly – The nymphs and adult both suck the sap of the tender leaves and shoots. They are most active during April-May and again September-October. To control these spray Ethion (fosmite 50 EC) 10 ml or Triazophos (Hostathion 40 EC) 10 ml or Endosulfan (Thiodan 35 EC) 10 ml in 5 liter water per plant during April-May followed in September-October.
PLUMS & PEACH FRUIT (90 plants per acre)
Peach Black Aphid and Mite – These pests cause damage by sucking the sap from the bark of the stem, limbs and tender branches from mid March to June. To control these pests a spray of Malathion EC 5 ml or Endosulfan 35 EC (Thiodan) 5 ml in 5 liter water per plant is recommended.
Plum Case Worm – The pest nibbles on the bark or the tender twigs, branches and stems during March – May. Treatment is a spray of Carbaryl 50 WP (Sevin) 10 gm or Endosulfan 35 EC (Thiodan) 5 ml in 5 liter water per plant.