CREATING
A NEW GARDEN
If you are a kind of person who likes to have things done your way and if the most important factor is self-satisfaction then this is for you. Here we teach you to create the Garden of your dreams. Our guidelines will help you bring your dreams garden in to existence. Creating your own garden is not a project that will be accomplished in a day or two, unless you are prepared to spend a lot of money to pay for landscape designers. These professionals do beautiful work, but the finished product will only reflect their own ideas, concepts and personality. It will be their dream garden, existing upon your property.
However creating your own garden will give you the self-satisfaction that is the resulting reward of own imagination, planning, and hard work that it takes to create this personal work of art. Gardening is a lot of hard work, but it is an enjoyable work. Each hour of hard work and efforts that you put in your garden will give you rewarding results. When you see your plants and flowers grow and blossom in glory you will realize that your dream garden has really become a reality and you are its proud owner.
The first and probably most important consideration when putting in a new garden is what type of soil you have. A perfect garden soil should have a small percentage of clay and sand and a large proportion of silt and organic matter. A good soil will crumble apart when it is dug. The soil you use should not prevent oxygen from reaching the roots and the roots should have space to grow to their full potential. The soil should also be able to hold water for the plants. The Ph value (acid or alkaline) of soil is also an important factor. With a little work, and a few amendments to the soil, the texture can be improved and either of these can become useful and productive gardens. You can perform a simple test to determine the composition of your soil. Put 2 cups of soil taken from the top 6 inches of your garden into a glass jar. Fill with water, cover and shake vigorously. After 24 hours the organic material will be the layer floating on the surface; the next layer is clay; the third layer, silt; and the bottom layer, sand. This profile will show you what basic materials you have and their relative proportions. Only after the site has been prepared, and the soil and conditioners mixed, watered well and settled should you test the pH of the soil.
If you are a kind of person who likes to have things done your way and if the most important factor is self-satisfaction then this is for you. Here we teach you to create the Garden of your dreams. Our guidelines will help you bring your dreams garden in to existence. Creating your own garden is not a project that will be accomplished in a day or two, unless you are prepared to spend a lot of money to pay for landscape designers. These professionals do beautiful work, but the finished product will only reflect their own ideas, concepts and personality. It will be their dream garden, existing upon your property.
However creating your own garden will give you the self-satisfaction that is the resulting reward of own imagination, planning, and hard work that it takes to create this personal work of art. Gardening is a lot of hard work, but it is an enjoyable work. Each hour of hard work and efforts that you put in your garden will give you rewarding results. When you see your plants and flowers grow and blossom in glory you will realize that your dream garden has really become a reality and you are its proud owner.
The first and probably most important consideration when putting in a new garden is what type of soil you have. A perfect garden soil should have a small percentage of clay and sand and a large proportion of silt and organic matter. A good soil will crumble apart when it is dug. The soil you use should not prevent oxygen from reaching the roots and the roots should have space to grow to their full potential. The soil should also be able to hold water for the plants. The Ph value (acid or alkaline) of soil is also an important factor. With a little work, and a few amendments to the soil, the texture can be improved and either of these can become useful and productive gardens. You can perform a simple test to determine the composition of your soil. Put 2 cups of soil taken from the top 6 inches of your garden into a glass jar. Fill with water, cover and shake vigorously. After 24 hours the organic material will be the layer floating on the surface; the next layer is clay; the third layer, silt; and the bottom layer, sand. This profile will show you what basic materials you have and their relative proportions. Only after the site has been prepared, and the soil and conditioners mixed, watered well and settled should you test the pH of the soil.
Preparing the ground
To begin preparing the ground, double dig the entire area rather than just spotting individual plant holes. Start at one end and dig down the full width of the garden, removing loosing the soil and thus making it freer. Then dig down a second row of cuts; this time placing the soil where you previously dug. Break up dirt clods and remove large rocks as you go. Continue doing this till you reach the other end of the garden where you will add the soil, which was first removed. Once the entire area has been dug, you can begin to recondition and prepare the soil.
Sandy soils
Sandy soils may be all right for certain plants, but for the most part are useless because they won't hold water for the plant. Large quantities of organic material should be added to sandy soils. The addition of compost and other organics will help to hold nutrients and water within the soil.
Clay soils
Clay soils will gum when wet and almost turn to stone when dry. Clay soils prevent oxygen from reaching the roots, and inhibit the roots from growing to their full potential. They have low levels of organic matter and can be very difficult to work with. The addition of organic matter open up clay soils and improve porosity. When the soil has begun to dry somewhat, and become workable, coarse organic materials such as compost, grass clippings, leaves and manure should be added. The addition of some coarse sand, granite grit, or other aggregates will greatly aid in the drainage of the soil.
Only after the site has been prepared, and the soil and conditioners mixed, watered well and settled should you test the pH of the soil. You can buy an inexpensive pH test kit at most nurseries, and many good garden centers will gladly test a soil sample for you. The best way to adjust pH is gradually, over several seasons. If the soil is excessively alkaline, you might be better off to build a raised bed using topsoil purchased from a nursery.
To begin preparing the ground, double dig the entire area rather than just spotting individual plant holes. Start at one end and dig down the full width of the garden, removing loosing the soil and thus making it freer. Then dig down a second row of cuts; this time placing the soil where you previously dug. Break up dirt clods and remove large rocks as you go. Continue doing this till you reach the other end of the garden where you will add the soil, which was first removed. Once the entire area has been dug, you can begin to recondition and prepare the soil.
Sandy soils
Sandy soils may be all right for certain plants, but for the most part are useless because they won't hold water for the plant. Large quantities of organic material should be added to sandy soils. The addition of compost and other organics will help to hold nutrients and water within the soil.
Clay soils
Clay soils will gum when wet and almost turn to stone when dry. Clay soils prevent oxygen from reaching the roots, and inhibit the roots from growing to their full potential. They have low levels of organic matter and can be very difficult to work with. The addition of organic matter open up clay soils and improve porosity. When the soil has begun to dry somewhat, and become workable, coarse organic materials such as compost, grass clippings, leaves and manure should be added. The addition of some coarse sand, granite grit, or other aggregates will greatly aid in the drainage of the soil.
Only after the site has been prepared, and the soil and conditioners mixed, watered well and settled should you test the pH of the soil. You can buy an inexpensive pH test kit at most nurseries, and many good garden centers will gladly test a soil sample for you. The best way to adjust pH is gradually, over several seasons. If the soil is excessively alkaline, you might be better off to build a raised bed using topsoil purchased from a nursery.
Planting
Once you have conditioned and prepared your garden's soil you are ready to set your plants. Keep in mind that if you have had to drastically changed the texture of the soil you may have to continue working on it for a couple of years before it becomes stable. It may be more appropriate to use annuals for planting rather than perennials during the first year so that you won't have to disturb permanent plants. Starting a garden from scratch this way is a lot of work and the most rewarding one too.
SELECTING A HEALTHY PLANT FOR
YOUR GARDEN AND HOUSE
The next step towards building your dream garden is choosing the right plants. As you enter the nursery or garden centre, you look around at the various kinds of plant selection. You may know the kind of plant you are looking for, or you may just browse until you find the flower or plant that rings really attract you. That is usually the easiest way to shop for your garden plant. Now you must decide which specimen, out of the numerous plants, you want to take home with you. There are several aspects that you should consider in making your decision. The prettiest plant on the shelf is not necessarily the healthiest, nor the best buy.
Take a look at the general health of all of the plants in the nursery, not just of a particular variety. Unlike seasonal perennials and annuals, houseplants may reside in the nursery for a year or longer. During this time they may be exposed to many common houseplant pests. If you find mites, mealy bugs, or any other harmful insects anywhere in the houseplant department, they may have already infested the plant you like as well. In such circumstances its best not to purchase any plant from there. Better
After decided on the type of plant, choose about a half dozen of the healthiest looking plants, and set them off to the side. Then go back for a closer examination of the different parts of each plant, before making any decision. Look closely for insect pests and signs of disease.
The next step towards building your dream garden is choosing the right plants. As you enter the nursery or garden centre, you look around at the various kinds of plant selection. You may know the kind of plant you are looking for, or you may just browse until you find the flower or plant that rings really attract you. That is usually the easiest way to shop for your garden plant. Now you must decide which specimen, out of the numerous plants, you want to take home with you. There are several aspects that you should consider in making your decision. The prettiest plant on the shelf is not necessarily the healthiest, nor the best buy.
Take a look at the general health of all of the plants in the nursery, not just of a particular variety. Unlike seasonal perennials and annuals, houseplants may reside in the nursery for a year or longer. During this time they may be exposed to many common houseplant pests. If you find mites, mealy bugs, or any other harmful insects anywhere in the houseplant department, they may have already infested the plant you like as well. In such circumstances its best not to purchase any plant from there. Better
After decided on the type of plant, choose about a half dozen of the healthiest looking plants, and set them off to the side. Then go back for a closer examination of the different parts of each plant, before making any decision. Look closely for insect pests and signs of disease.
Roots
Next check the roots. The roots provide the food for the plant, and are of the utmost importance. It is essential that there is a healthy, robust root ball, which fills, or nearly fills the pot. To check the condition of the root either you can ask the nursery man to remove the plant from the pot and show you or you can look at the drainage holes in the pot and get a pretty good idea of what is going on inside the pot. A few (but not too many) roots should be beginning to poke through the drain holes. These roots should not be dry or brittle. No roots should be showing above the surface of the soil.
The stems and trunks will determine the shape and fullness of the plant. The main stem(s) should be thick and healthy in appearance. The stems should be spaced evenly around the plant Look for abrasions, breaks or other stem damage, which may be slowly killing the plant. The leaves should appear to be strong and healthy, and the foliage color should be bright.
Flowering plants should have young, tight buds. It's nice to see the plant in full bloom, but if it is fully flowered now, you may not see it bloom in your garden until the following year. Some perennials and most annuals have an extended blooming period, so with these plants this is not a major concern, but should be considered.
Next check the roots. The roots provide the food for the plant, and are of the utmost importance. It is essential that there is a healthy, robust root ball, which fills, or nearly fills the pot. To check the condition of the root either you can ask the nursery man to remove the plant from the pot and show you or you can look at the drainage holes in the pot and get a pretty good idea of what is going on inside the pot. A few (but not too many) roots should be beginning to poke through the drain holes. These roots should not be dry or brittle. No roots should be showing above the surface of the soil.
The stems and trunks will determine the shape and fullness of the plant. The main stem(s) should be thick and healthy in appearance. The stems should be spaced evenly around the plant Look for abrasions, breaks or other stem damage, which may be slowly killing the plant. The leaves should appear to be strong and healthy, and the foliage color should be bright.
Flowering plants should have young, tight buds. It's nice to see the plant in full bloom, but if it is fully flowered now, you may not see it bloom in your garden until the following year. Some perennials and most annuals have an extended blooming period, so with these plants this is not a major concern, but should be considered.
Only after the site has been prepared, and the soil and conditioners mixed, watered well and settled should you test the pH of the soil. You can buy an inexpensive pH test kit at most nurseries, and many good garden centres will gladly test a soil sample for you. The best way to adjust pH is gradually, over several seasons. If the soil is excessively alkaline, you might be better off to build a raised bed using topsoil purchased from a nursery.
When you bring your plants home, allow them to adapt themselves in the new surroundings by placing them in the shade, and then gradually bring them into their proper lighting. Be sure to keep them well watered until they are ready to plant into the ground. It is best to plant them on a cloudy day.
SELECTING PROPER SITE
Selecting proper site and planting the plants of your choice is the third step towards creating your dream garden. For selecting a proper site it is important to see where and which part of the garden is more exposed to sunlight. Perennials and annuals must be grown in an area of the garden that meets their requirements for sun, moisture, nutrients, drainage and air circulation. Take these requirements into consideration when planning your planting locations, as well as the labour, which it will take to make the area usable.
Firstly, divide your garden into four areas and concentrate on one area at a time. Then begin the task of 'double digging' the entire area, removing roots and rocks simultaneously. Double digging consists of digging a trench the entire width of your garden (or section thereof...) to a depth of two shovels. The removed soil is set off to the side. Then you dig another trench adjoining the first one, but this time you toss the soil into the original ditch. Continue digging, and moving the soil, until you reach the other end of the garden. Place the soil from the first trench into the last, and you are done with this step. Complete 'double digging' the whole garden.
After decided on the type of plant, choose about a half dozen of the healthiest looking plants, and set them off to the side. Then go back for a closer examination of the different parts of each plant, before making any decision. Look closely for insect pests and signs of disease.
The next step is to add fertilizers and mix them properly with the soil. Also add compost because it is a added requirement for the proper growth of the plants. After the soil was double dug, prepared and mixed, levelled it out with a garden rake. Now you are free to plant your favourite trees in your garden. Make a proper layout as to which plant will look better where and go ahead with your planting regime.
GARDEN PEST PROBLEMSSelecting proper site and planting the plants of your choice is the third step towards creating your dream garden. For selecting a proper site it is important to see where and which part of the garden is more exposed to sunlight. Perennials and annuals must be grown in an area of the garden that meets their requirements for sun, moisture, nutrients, drainage and air circulation. Take these requirements into consideration when planning your planting locations, as well as the labour, which it will take to make the area usable.
Firstly, divide your garden into four areas and concentrate on one area at a time. Then begin the task of 'double digging' the entire area, removing roots and rocks simultaneously. Double digging consists of digging a trench the entire width of your garden (or section thereof...) to a depth of two shovels. The removed soil is set off to the side. Then you dig another trench adjoining the first one, but this time you toss the soil into the original ditch. Continue digging, and moving the soil, until you reach the other end of the garden. Place the soil from the first trench into the last, and you are done with this step. Complete 'double digging' the whole garden.
After decided on the type of plant, choose about a half dozen of the healthiest looking plants, and set them off to the side. Then go back for a closer examination of the different parts of each plant, before making any decision. Look closely for insect pests and signs of disease.
The next step is to add fertilizers and mix them properly with the soil. Also add compost because it is a added requirement for the proper growth of the plants. After the soil was double dug, prepared and mixed, levelled it out with a garden rake. Now you are free to plant your favourite trees in your garden. Make a proper layout as to which plant will look better where and go ahead with your planting regime.
The last and most vigilant process is to keep your garden free from pests and dangerous insects that harm the plants. You have to be always vigilant and every day you have to carefully examine all your plants for harmful and dangerous insects and pests. These problem solving guides are intended to help you identify and solve many of the common problems which may adversely affect individual plants, your vegetable garden, or your entire landscape. Use of pesticides and herbicides is one of the options but its use should be done only when the condition is worst. The use of such toxic chemicals is sometimes harmful for your plants and hence avoided as much as possible. However, for most problems, there are safe alternatives, which will work equally as well if you are willing to take a little additional time and effort to control the problem organically. However these methods may not all the time be effective and then you will have to resort to chemical controls. There are many pesticides and herbicides available in the markets which you can use to get rid of the pests.
Firstly, divide your garden into four areas and concentrate on one area at a time. Then begin the task of 'double digging' the entire area, removing roots and rocks simultaneously. Double digging consists of digging a trench the entire width of your garden (or section thereof...) to a depth of two shovels. The removed soil is set off to the side. Then you dig another trench adjoining the first one, but this time you toss the soil into the original ditch. Continue digging, and moving the soil, until you reach the other end of the garden. Place the soil from the first trench into the last, and you are done with this step. Complete 'double digging' the whole garden.
Types of Pests
Armyworms
Armyworms are actually the caterpillar life stage of a moth. Their eggs masses, which may contain several hundred new worms, are deposited on or near plant foods. Each female may deposit several of these clusters. The caterpillar that hatches from the egg is only about one-eighth inch long, but when it is fully grown, it reaches a length of about two inches. The caterpillars usually feed at night and hide in plant litter just above the soil surface during the day. It is sometimes possible to control these bugs using natural predators.
Green
Lacewings
Green lacewings,
pirate bugs, and egg wasps are somewhat effective in the control of armyworms.
However if the infestation is out of control and chemical control become
necessary, use pesticides available in the market for their eradication. Read
and follow all precautions and directions on the insecticide label before
mixing and applying the chemical. Use all pesticides cautiously and sparingly.
Remember, that when you are using chemicals in your garden, you are responsible
for the side effects of pesticide that may drift to another person's property
or plants.
Slugs
Slugs are mostly found in moisture-laden areas. They pose to be a serious problem for your garden and can be very dangerous. A single night crawler can successfully remove an entire row of seedlings from your garden in no time at all leaving you totally dumbfounded and helpless. As slugs wander about, doing their evil little slug deeds, they leave behind them a trail of slime, which amounts to nothing less than a road sign for themselves and every other slug to follow to the grand feast. To make the situation even worse, slugs are hermaphrodites; they all have male and female reproductive systems. Yes, they can mate with themselves, and in the privacy of their own abode, each slug will produce two to three dozen eggs several times a year. The egg clusters look like little piles of whitish jelly BB sized balls. They hatch in anywhere from 10 days to three weeks or longer, and these sluglings canmature to adulthood in as little as six weeks. Destroy the eggs... wherever you find them. Slugs may live for several years, getting larger with proportionately larger appetites each year.
Remember that slugs and snails live in damp and moist areas. So the first step is to keep your garden free from deed and decaying leaves or plants or areas, which are moist thereby, eliminating the areas where these hideous and dangerous pests hide, stay and reproduce. Pulling the weeds from your garden is something you need to do anyway. As you pull each weed, you remove a potential slug outpost. Keep all decaying matter cleaned out of your garden beds. While leaves make good mulch, once they begin to compost they become food and shelter for slugs and snails. Trim the branches of any shrubs, which are lying on the ground. Keep the old leaves and such cleaned out. By doing this you will have destroyed yet another slug haven! Just about anything can become a slug home. Boards, rocks, pots should be kept out of the garden. Keep the lawn edges trimmed and keep changing the places of pots in case you want to keep them in your garden.
Another method of eliminating slugs is hand-to-hand combat. Keep slug pokers stuck around the garden at random. Meet your enemy and you know what to do….. Your weapon is at hand, stab them and finish them off. Another interesting trick is stale beer. Fill a small bowl with stale beer. Put it in the areas where the slugs are active. Stale beer attracts the slugs and they drown. Sprinkling salt on slugs will also result to eliminating these nasty pests. Bait and destroy tactics work. Set a pile of slightly dampened dry dog food in an area frequented by slugs. In the morning and evening visit the feeding station a few times.... slug poker in hand! The sharp edges of crushed eggshells around the plants will cut and kill slugs.
The last method of slug eradication is chemicals, which are effective and ensure their immediate eradication. But at the same time you have to be extra protective steps to insure that the poisons are inaccessible to anything but slugs and snails. These chemicals can also be injurious to children and house pets.
Thus what you have to do to keep your garden free from pests is to devote some of your time every day to check the health and safety of your plants just as you check the health and safety of your family.
Slugs are mostly found in moisture-laden areas. They pose to be a serious problem for your garden and can be very dangerous. A single night crawler can successfully remove an entire row of seedlings from your garden in no time at all leaving you totally dumbfounded and helpless. As slugs wander about, doing their evil little slug deeds, they leave behind them a trail of slime, which amounts to nothing less than a road sign for themselves and every other slug to follow to the grand feast. To make the situation even worse, slugs are hermaphrodites; they all have male and female reproductive systems. Yes, they can mate with themselves, and in the privacy of their own abode, each slug will produce two to three dozen eggs several times a year. The egg clusters look like little piles of whitish jelly BB sized balls. They hatch in anywhere from 10 days to three weeks or longer, and these sluglings canmature to adulthood in as little as six weeks. Destroy the eggs... wherever you find them. Slugs may live for several years, getting larger with proportionately larger appetites each year.
Remember that slugs and snails live in damp and moist areas. So the first step is to keep your garden free from deed and decaying leaves or plants or areas, which are moist thereby, eliminating the areas where these hideous and dangerous pests hide, stay and reproduce. Pulling the weeds from your garden is something you need to do anyway. As you pull each weed, you remove a potential slug outpost. Keep all decaying matter cleaned out of your garden beds. While leaves make good mulch, once they begin to compost they become food and shelter for slugs and snails. Trim the branches of any shrubs, which are lying on the ground. Keep the old leaves and such cleaned out. By doing this you will have destroyed yet another slug haven! Just about anything can become a slug home. Boards, rocks, pots should be kept out of the garden. Keep the lawn edges trimmed and keep changing the places of pots in case you want to keep them in your garden.
Another method of eliminating slugs is hand-to-hand combat. Keep slug pokers stuck around the garden at random. Meet your enemy and you know what to do….. Your weapon is at hand, stab them and finish them off. Another interesting trick is stale beer. Fill a small bowl with stale beer. Put it in the areas where the slugs are active. Stale beer attracts the slugs and they drown. Sprinkling salt on slugs will also result to eliminating these nasty pests. Bait and destroy tactics work. Set a pile of slightly dampened dry dog food in an area frequented by slugs. In the morning and evening visit the feeding station a few times.... slug poker in hand! The sharp edges of crushed eggshells around the plants will cut and kill slugs.
The last method of slug eradication is chemicals, which are effective and ensure their immediate eradication. But at the same time you have to be extra protective steps to insure that the poisons are inaccessible to anything but slugs and snails. These chemicals can also be injurious to children and house pets.
Thus what you have to do to keep your garden free from pests is to devote some of your time every day to check the health and safety of your plants just as you check the health and safety of your family.
Don't forget plants
are a part of your life and they too need your time and care. Every morning
after getting up make it a routine to go into your garden and wish a very
good morning to your plants and check if they are doing ok. Touch them and
insure them that they are safe and you are going to take care of them.
When you water them
sing to them or play them some music….. you will be surprised to know that
plants love music and Indian classical music is their favorite music. Check out
if they are infested with pests and take steps to eliminate them. At night
before going to sleep wish them goodnight. Do this and you will see the
change ……… your plants will look more fresh and lively and your garden will be
a center of attraction.
COMMON HOUSE PLANT DISEASES
Decorating houses with plants has become the in-thing. People today prefer furnishing their home and office with beautiful plants and thus it becomes very necessary to keep the plants healthy and looking great.
However,
maintaining healthy plants indoors can sometimes be difficult. However if you
are a kind of person who enjoys the company of your plants and love taking care
of them then you should know the different types of problems that your plants
face and know about the solutions. Thus if you enjoy the challenge of growing
plants indoors, you will still need to use time and ingenuity to figure out
what is causing problems when they occur. Following are a few common houseplant
diseases with possible causes and remedies.
Leaf-spots, flower spots and scars
Fungi
and bacteria may cause spots. If you suspect bacteria or fungus is causing
spots, remove and destroy the affected plant parts, avoid splashing water on
the foliage since this spreads the microorganisms causing the problem, and
provide good air circulation. Infection only occurs under moist air conditions
or if standing water is left on the foliage for prolonged periods. Too much
light or heat causes pale washed out, white or gray spots, usually irregular in
shape and size. Brown corky spots or lumps can be caused by too much water,
especially during cool, humid weather. Many tropical plants develop spots on
foliage that is old and ready to be dropped. This is normal.
Wilting
Wilting means that
the plant is not able to replace the water lost by evaporation. The cause is
some types of fungi and bacteria enter the plant roots through the soil and
destroy the water-conducting ability of the plant as a result of which leaves
wilt and become pale, eventually turning brown; growth is reduced and the plant
may soon die.
To determine the
cause, you must examine the roots of the plant. Sometimes over watering and
lack of drainage will cause the roots to die because of lack of air. Thus
provide drainage, and reduce watering.
Growing plants in
small pots may also cause wilts. A pot-bound plant, which has filled its pot
with roots, which can often be seen growing out of the bottom of the pot, will
wilt because there isn't enough soil to hold the water for all those roots.
Hence the solution is to repotting the plant in a larger pot. Sometimes
infection by root knot nematodes will result in wilting. Look for lumps and
bumps on the root system. Infected plants and soil should be destroyed.
Top,
stem or root rot
Certain fungi cause
root rots, which are usually aggravated by too much water. If only a small
amount of the roots have been affected, drenching the soil with fungicides may
cure the disease. Fungal root rots will eventually cause a wilted top. Cutting
dead roots and repotting in clean soil usually obtain good results. If most of
the roots are dead, the plant should be discarded.
The microorganisms
that cause these problems thrive in moist conditions, so plants, which have
root rots as a result of over watering, are highly susceptible to infection. Always
place the plant in dry, ventilated room and avoid too much watering because at
first the plant seems like it needs water and the leaves droop. It is only a
false sign. Withhold water until progress of the disease is halted.
Yellowing
of the entire plant
Yellowing of the
plant may result from too little light, too little fertilizer, insects or
mites. Most often yellowing is caused because of over watering. As above, check
for drainage in the pot, examine the roots and if root is dark, rotten and
dead, it is better to discard the plant.
Botrytis
blot
This disease
generally appears as a fuzzy gray growth and is basically caused because of
fungus. This fungal disease mostly develops on any aboveground part of the
plant as a result of high humidity or overcrowding, or if dead leaves or
flowers have been left on the plant. Thus always spend some time to remove old
leaves and flowers. Increase ventilation and keep the plants in dry places,
avoid too much humidity and moisture. Treatment with a recommended fungicide
may be necessary.
Viral
and bacterial diseases
Viral diseases rarely
cause serious problems with houseplants. These parasitic microorganisms
multiply only in living plant cells. They cause a variety of symptoms like,
ring spots, abnormal leaf growth, etc. Bacterial diseases cause root and stem
rots, wilts, leaf spots and galls on the different plant parts and are
difficult to control. To keep plants safe from bacterial diseases keep plants
in dry places with proper ventilation and do not over water your plants.
Plants
used indoors have widely differing requirements for light, soil, temperature
and water. The requirements vary from plant to plant. Some plants may require
more care and attention than others. Normally houseplants adapt themselves to
the given atmospheric conditions provided to them but it is important for you
to understand their individual requirement in order to ensure their health and
longitivity. Following are tips of houseplant care.
Examine
your plant regularly and religiously. Check for decay, rotting, insects, spots,
any sign of poor health and watering needs.
Don't
drown your plants. Roots need air as well as water. Keeping the compost soaked
at all times means certain death for most plants. Try to learn how to water
your plants, watch them carefully to see how they respond. Water according to
their type and requirement of water.
Provide
fresh air for your plant. Avoid fluctuating temperature and stuffiness.
Sunburn is often a problem when plants are placed on a windowsill in intense sunlight or areas in your garden where the sunrays fall on your plant for too long time.
Sunburn is often a problem when plants are placed on a windowsill in intense sunlight or areas in your garden where the sunrays fall on your plant for too long time.
Group
your plants together. Nearly all plants look better and grow better when
grouped together. Try out different arrangements of your plants and make note
of which plants enhance the beauty of others, bearing in mind that in different
rooms there will be different amounts of light and each plant may have
different needs. Remember to take into account the needs of each plant especially
if planting them together in a tub, make sure their needs are compatible, i.e.
water, light and food.
Keep
the plants dirt free and fresh. Wash them regularly. Bathe your plants every 3
weeks. Bathing keeps the pores open, improves the appearance, reduces insect
attack and your plant looks fresh. Small plants can be washed in the kitchen
sink while large plants if possible can be washed under the shower or wipe the
leaves using a sponge. After washing shake the extra water off the plants and
do not place them in hot direct sunlight until they have dried off. If excess
water remains on the leaf for too long, rot or fungus diseases may set in, and
exposure to hot sun will cause burns to appear on the leaves where they are
wet. However if your plants are infected with fungal or bacterial disease,
washing will create more problems and spread the disease.
Turn
the plant every week. Turning the plant one-quarter turn each week will prevent
it from growing unevenly towards the light. Treat trouble promptly. If you see
any problem with your plant do not delay taking action. Learn how to recognize
the early signs of trouble and take proper action.
Loosen
surface soil occasionally if it becomes coated and hard, but avoid damaging the
roots.
Remove
dead leaves and flowers from plants. They spoil the look of the plant and also
harbour diseases, which can be fatal to your plant. Give your plant a rest.
Nearly all plants need a rest in winter, which means less water, less feeding
and less heat than in the active growing period. Always respect your plants
needs for a resting period.
Learn
to repot. After a year or two most plants will need to be repotted, signs are
that they are simply to big for the current pot or they begin to look very sick
and struggling to grow.
When
you're on vacation the main problem your plants face is lack of water. A simple
and effective method of preventing your plant from drying out is to water it
thoroughly and wrap both pot and plant with plastic. Before wrapping, cut away
unhealthy foliage and any buds about to open. Keep the plant away from direct
sunlight and heating vents.
Accept
the loss of temporary plants. Some plants die within weeks and you don't have
to curse yourself. You have done nothing wrong. It is natural.
Have the proper tools required for keeping your plants healthy and your garden looking great.
Have the proper tools required for keeping your plants healthy and your garden looking great.
VERMICOMPOST
Vermicompost is known to be the world's best fertiliser and it is known to change the look of your garden. Vermicompost means that the worms are kept in a bin with shredded paper or other biodegradable bedding. You feed them food waste that you get from your kitchen. They feed on the food waste and digest the waste and bedding then excrete nutrient-rich castings. After a few months, the castings combined with the well-decomposed bedding, become vermicompost -- one of the richest soil improvements around. It is a simple method and it does wonders on your garden, plants, flowers and vegetable garden.
Vermicompost is known to be the world's best fertiliser and it is known to change the look of your garden. Vermicompost means that the worms are kept in a bin with shredded paper or other biodegradable bedding. You feed them food waste that you get from your kitchen. They feed on the food waste and digest the waste and bedding then excrete nutrient-rich castings. After a few months, the castings combined with the well-decomposed bedding, become vermicompost -- one of the richest soil improvements around. It is a simple method and it does wonders on your garden, plants, flowers and vegetable garden.
To
start Vermicompost you will require the following things.
A
bin
Biodegradable
bedding
Food
waste
Worms
BIN
For worm containers use wooden boxes, metal tubs and plastic basins, provided they allow good air circulation. The worm container should be shallow and not too deep, no more than 18 inches deep. To determine the size of bin you need, you'll need to calculate how much food waste your family creates in an average week. For example: If your household creates an average of four pounds of food waste each week, a 2x2' bin should be adequate. The bin should have the greatest surface area for proper air circulation and for dumping more food waste. For proper air circulation drill 1/4" drainage holes through the bottom of your bin. For example for plastic, drill 14-20 holes, 9-12 holes for a wooden container. Raise the bin up on bricks or wooden blocks, and place a tray or a sheet of plastic underneath. Put your bin in some comfortable place, and where worms won't be subjected to extreme temperatures. Worms like temperatures ranging from 20-25° C.
For worm containers use wooden boxes, metal tubs and plastic basins, provided they allow good air circulation. The worm container should be shallow and not too deep, no more than 18 inches deep. To determine the size of bin you need, you'll need to calculate how much food waste your family creates in an average week. For example: If your household creates an average of four pounds of food waste each week, a 2x2' bin should be adequate. The bin should have the greatest surface area for proper air circulation and for dumping more food waste. For proper air circulation drill 1/4" drainage holes through the bottom of your bin. For example for plastic, drill 14-20 holes, 9-12 holes for a wooden container. Raise the bin up on bricks or wooden blocks, and place a tray or a sheet of plastic underneath. Put your bin in some comfortable place, and where worms won't be subjected to extreme temperatures. Worms like temperatures ranging from 20-25° C.
BEDDING
Bedding giving worms a place to work and rest. It also helps hold moisture in your box. Use light, fluffy biodegradable materials free from pesticides or chemicals. For perfect bedding tear newspaper (without the colour comics and glossy advertisements) into thin strips, the thinner the better. You can also use shredded cardboard. Put some sand in to the bedding since it contributes nutrients and grit to help worms digest food waste. Periodically sprinkle small amounts of crushed eggshells or ground limestone, which is a good source of calcium.
Bedding giving worms a place to work and rest. It also helps hold moisture in your box. Use light, fluffy biodegradable materials free from pesticides or chemicals. For perfect bedding tear newspaper (without the colour comics and glossy advertisements) into thin strips, the thinner the better. You can also use shredded cardboard. Put some sand in to the bedding since it contributes nutrients and grit to help worms digest food waste. Periodically sprinkle small amounts of crushed eggshells or ground limestone, which is a good source of calcium.
Plan
on 5 to 8 pounds of bedding for a 2'x2' box. Place the bedding in a clean
trashcan or other large container. Pour in three pounds of water per pound of
dry bedding, and mix well. Note that the bedding should be uniformly damp, but
not dripping wet. Toss in a handful of soil, crushed eggshells, or other
additives. Lift and fluff the bedding to aerate then put it into the bin.
Sprinkle the worms over the surface of the bedding, gently untwining any
wiggling clumps. Place a bright overhead light over the bin and the worms will
burrow down into the bedding. It is advisable to leave a light on your worm box
for the first three or four days. After a few days the worms will settle down
and do their best.
WORMS
The
best worms for vermicomposting are red worms (Eisenia foetida or Lumbricus
rubellus). The red worm is capable of reproducing quickly in captivity, while
munching profuse quantities of food waste. If your bin is a 2x2' bin then use
one pound of worms (1000 worms). You can buy worms from garden centres or
nurseries.
FOOD WASTE
Worms are not picky eaters; they will munch on just about anything. Give your worms peels and other vegetable waste. However while giving them banana waste don't put the peel because banana peel attracts fruit flies. You can even toss in coffee filters and tea bags, but do take off the tea bag tag and the little metal. You can also put plate scrapes, eggshells in the bin. Things that are absolutely No-No are meat and bone, dog and cat litter, plastic, glass, aluminium foil and other non-biodegradable items.
Worms are not picky eaters; they will munch on just about anything. Give your worms peels and other vegetable waste. However while giving them banana waste don't put the peel because banana peel attracts fruit flies. You can even toss in coffee filters and tea bags, but do take off the tea bag tag and the little metal. You can also put plate scrapes, eggshells in the bin. Things that are absolutely No-No are meat and bone, dog and cat litter, plastic, glass, aluminium foil and other non-biodegradable items.
FEEDING THE WORMS
To feed the worms divide the bin in four sections. Bury scraps under a few inches of bedding in the first section and cover it with loose plastic or newspaper. After 4/5 days its time to feed the worms again and then fill the scrapes in the second section. This way you can fill all the sections and you don't have to dig into the waste. Remember red worms are voracious eaters but your bin should not smell of bad odour. If that is the case then you have added too much of food and the worms are finding it difficult to cope up. Stir the bedding to aerate, cover the box and add no more food until the smell hasn't gone. Worms are low-maintenance, and you can skip two or three weeks without feeding them. Any longer than that, and you'll have a big box of dead worms.
To feed the worms divide the bin in four sections. Bury scraps under a few inches of bedding in the first section and cover it with loose plastic or newspaper. After 4/5 days its time to feed the worms again and then fill the scrapes in the second section. This way you can fill all the sections and you don't have to dig into the waste. Remember red worms are voracious eaters but your bin should not smell of bad odour. If that is the case then you have added too much of food and the worms are finding it difficult to cope up. Stir the bedding to aerate, cover the box and add no more food until the smell hasn't gone. Worms are low-maintenance, and you can skip two or three weeks without feeding them. Any longer than that, and you'll have a big box of dead worms.
WORM HARVESTING
The method of harvesting is very simple. Put on your rubber gloves. Place a large sheet of plastic on the floor or on a table. Pour the entire contents of the bin onto the sheet. Shape the compost into cone-shaped mounds. Then shine a bright light above the mounds; this will drive the worms toward the bottom interior of each mound. Wait 5-10 minutes, and then gently scrape off the layers of vermicompost until all you have left is worms. Put the worms into a temporary storage container while you clean out the bin and fill it with fresh bedding. You may see tiny, lemon-shaped cocoons; these contain baby worms, so be sure to add them to the new bin. Bury food scraper for four months and you will get a nice box full of vermicompost after leaving the bin alone for three to four months.
The method of harvesting is very simple. Put on your rubber gloves. Place a large sheet of plastic on the floor or on a table. Pour the entire contents of the bin onto the sheet. Shape the compost into cone-shaped mounds. Then shine a bright light above the mounds; this will drive the worms toward the bottom interior of each mound. Wait 5-10 minutes, and then gently scrape off the layers of vermicompost until all you have left is worms. Put the worms into a temporary storage container while you clean out the bin and fill it with fresh bedding. You may see tiny, lemon-shaped cocoons; these contain baby worms, so be sure to add them to the new bin. Bury food scraper for four months and you will get a nice box full of vermicompost after leaving the bin alone for three to four months.
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